No trip is complete to Ghana without a trip to the slave castles.
Elmina Slave Castle

No trip is complete to Ghana without a trip to the slave castles.

Elmina Slave Castle

My friend and sister came to visit and we went had a day of touristy activities. Me at Kakum National Park!

My friend and sister came to visit and we went had a day of touristy activities. Me at Kakum National Park!

Momentum and disconnect

When I describe my study (a mental health study looking at the difference in prevalence of mood disorders between a patrilineal and matrilineal tribe in rural, Ghana) most people don’t understand why I would fly all the way to Ghana to go to…………….. the village.

The village is the epitome of everything that most city people rebuke with their very core. It’s also the epitome of underdevelopment and poverty. In fact, one of the greatest insults/”funniest” jokes is to say that someone is from the bush or acts like a villager. It’s pretty close to calling someone “hood” or “ghetto” in the United States. There is such an extreme disconnect amongst the city folk and villagers…it’s somewhat astounding.

Washington, DC…the nation’s capital is known for two things: the central location of the most powerful government officials and buildings…and obscenely high crime rates. The disparity that you see between SE DC and Capitol Hill is probably the closet example to the difference between the “city” and the village…just think much more extreme.

There is an enormous air of “them” and “us” here in Ghana. The city dwellers speak of bringing themselves down to “their” level when discussing likely forced interaction between the two subcultures. Often going out of their way to make sure that the distinction is very clear between the two. Despite this separaion…..in Ghana, we identify ourselves not only by tribe or clan but by where we “come from”. Everyone is from a village. Even if our family hasn’t lived there for generations….we are all identified by the village that our mother or father’s parents or grandparents or great-grandparents came from. Much of the well to do own land in their village and often build homes or have farms in their village. Nevertheless…they are the first to draw the very thick line of “them” and “us”.

For the most part, I lived in the city and commuted to the villages I worked in throughout my time in Ghana. There were soooo many interesting and seemingly noteworthy observations I made during my field work. Be it the school children who no matter what stopped and greeted every adult that they came across or the tremendous sense of community…it was all of great interest to me. When I told people back in the city many weren’t too surprised or said that it happened everywhere in Ghana. But as I said in my previous post the momentum and rapid change is happening faster than I think most people realize. In Accra, people aren’t bothered with saying hello and the sense of community is disappearing. They’re truly beginning to “live like Americans” (a phrase I’ve heard one too many times). They don’t know their neighbors and certainly have not built a fellowship with them like they have in the village. 

Contrapositvely, there were stories I told of extreme gender roles where men dominated everything and women were the perfect example of extreme submission and the city dwellers immediately responded with “things are changing”. Even if things are changing, which they most definitely are, looking at the future and ignoring the present is not the way to go about social change.

We tend to see these kind of situations in our own lives where perceived negatives aren’t really present anymore and perceived positives are ever present without an end in sight. This disconnect, however, in regards to development and health are probably one of the greatest barriers in closing the disparity. 

With greats like Kwame Nkrumah in cultural archives many people have a natural affinity for looking back at his visionary leadership for guidance on what to do now. As a result there many other who reject those dwelling in the past and feel strongly that we need to look forward and progress. In both of these schools of thought…the present is missing. Few people are interested in the cross-sectional approach of looking at exactly what is going on now in Ghana. More importantly, it seems that some aren’t willing to put forth the work in the present to work towards a greater future. For those people, it’s just much easier to complain about the situation. We alllllllll know these kinds of people, no matter where we are in the world. 

Out of over 230 people that I interviewed, less than 10 people were able to sign their names, although the vast majority of them had gone through at least junior high school. When I came and told graduate ghanaian students at the University of Ghana….the majority of them were shocked. At least 4 of the villages that I went to were less than an hour away and there are several villages much closer to the school. I write all of this to say that many of the future leaders are the graduate and undergraduate students of today. Yet despite access to relatively important communities of interest…few have true understanding of the confines of the reality that the villagers live within. 

I dare not say that after a few days in a village I have deeper and and more broad understanding of a nation that citizens grew up in……but I am boldly saying that there is an obvious and serious disconnect between “them” and “us” and the momentum of the city and [seemingly] stagnation of the village. It is my sincere hope that Ghanaians, especially the younger ones (in Ghana and abroad), take time to gain a better understanding of the state of the nation in it’s entirety. Not focusing solely on the village or the city…the south or the north but rather one cohesive Ghana..for it is us who will inherit the land, policy, and consequences of the leaders’ action [or lack thereof] today…and us who will build upon previous generations’ work for the generations that come. 

In the name of progress

There is no such thing as conversation in global health without discussion of development. Ghana is no different. According to the World Bank last year, it’s the most rapidly developing nation in Sub-Saharan Africa….and it was “upgraded” from low income to middle income. The best way to describe the state of Ghana right now through the use of the ever present physics term: momentum. 

Ghana is on the brink of brilliance…or a beautiful disaster. Time will tell which way it goes though, I strongly suspect it’s the former. There’s an energy hear that most Ghanaians don’t appreciate but most foreigners pick up within a day or two. Things are changing…and changing fast. The change isn’t only in building of highways or 21 story buildings…but rather where all change begins…in the mindsets, attitudes, and belief systems of the people here. There are in many instances of blind adoptions of western cultural ideologies and even more instances of abandonment of cultural rituals and traditions in the name of “progress”. Be it the shock of americans wearing african print items in the USA or people wearing winter skull caps and timberland boots in blistering 93 F degree weather….there is no doubt that almost ubiquitous access to internet and rapid globalization has influenced the popular culture both here and in the west.

However, without the traditional evolution of thought, the microwave access to foreign ideas and customs has noticeably skipped important details that may have been included before. For example, apply to university here, you must apply and use an unnecessarily confusing program on the internet. This may seem reasonable to most westerners but in a country where many of the middle/upper class does not have internet access at home…it’s a bit absurd. Not to mention the lower class citizens who certainly don’t have access to computers. When questioned about this policy university and government officials suggest internet cafes. Ridiculous amounts of traffic that are a result of poor roads, faulty rules, and corrupt police don’t always make it easy to travel to places like internet cafes and it certainly isn’t cheap. Nevertheless…the idea is that “Ghana is moving forward” and like the west, it’s citizens must adapt and learn the new technological ways. Sounds great in theory…but therein the details lie the problems. We say that basic education is a basic human right…but we must seriously look at access and the confines of each culture before broad policy is made. 

Momentum is absolutely necessary in this age of globalization where if changes aren’t made you get left behind…but it is my sincere hope that as movement is being made in the name of “progress” important details aren’t ignored and that citizens here in Ghana aren’t left behind.

gorgeous fruit tree

gorgeous fruit tree

Cocoa Farm, Ghana

Cocoa Farm, Ghana

Akuapim, Kumasi, Ghana

Akuapim, Kumasi, Ghana

This man begged me to take his picture in Akuapim, Atwima, Ghana 
I’ll call this tree a wisdom tree and I believe as an elder in the community it’s appropriate that he’s sitting on it.

This man begged me to take his picture in Akuapim, Atwima, Ghana 

I’ll call this tree a wisdom tree and I believe as an elder in the community it’s appropriate that he’s sitting on it.

Interview in Atwima

Interview in Atwima

DONE

This journey of working in Ghana, can easily be described as one of the most frustrating experiences in my academic career only topped by that of a wretched physics course. It is also easily described as my most gratifying experience. After a loooooonngg and extensive series of pounding, I am happy to say that I have completed my data collection. We were able to complete over 250 interviews in about 2 months in the Dangbe West and Atwima Nwbiagya districts. The women were so incredibly eager and welcoming. Despite not getting any money or obvious benefit they were more than happy to answer the questions, and we often administered additional questionnaires because they requested it. 

Many of the women were shocked we were asking questions about their emotions, given they had never been asked about such things before. In a country of exaggerated gender roles (as compared to the US) I was surprised that many men asked why they also were not included in the study, because they too “had problems”. In the 14 villages I went to, only 2 women refused to answer the questions. I left every day inspired and motivated to do more. In some villages they gave us soda or plantains to thank us for the work we were doing. I was truly humbled every time this happened because it was I who was indebted to them for the time I took away from their days. 

The fieldwork component of our thesis is absolutely necessary because it reminds us of how important global health is, teaches us the reality of the communities that we study, and places our own world into context. I know that I cannot go back to the States looking at the world and development issues the same. This indispensable experience has helped me to solidify my career plan in the field. My grandmother told me after my first day in the field in Kumasi, after seeing me off at 5 am and welcoming me back at 5 pm, that the work I was doing was far from easy but I must love it or else I wouldn’t do it with a smile. She was absolutely right. I am passionate about research, global health, and mental health.  Though the days were exhausting in the field and the days leading to the field left me in frustrated web of emotion…I know without a shadow of doubt that it was worth it. If the only thing the women in my study ever get is relief from talking about how they’ve been feeling then I know they will be content. However, I also know that, this is just the beginning and hopefully I will be able to do more for the communities here in Ghana. I will leave Ghana in a month and a half committed, dedicated, and evermore inspired to do more.